© Romain Droog
Surprising as it may seem, the public space in Brussels is full of symbols of Latin American history, culture and diplomacy. Here is a non-exhaustive review of these surprising nooks and crannies.
Let's start with the embassies, literally little pieces of Latin American territory scattered across Brussels, taking possession of the city's prestigious heritage. Art Nouveau originated in Europe at the end of the 19th century, but the movement quickly spread across the Atlantic. Its exuberance and use of precious materials appealed to the wealthy classes of Latin American metropolises, eager to copy trends from the Old Continent.
There are some fine examples of Art Nouveau buildings in the streets of Havana and Buenos Aires, for example. Their embassies in Brussels continue this shared heritage tradition. Cuba occupies the former studio house of the painter Fernand Dubois, designed by Victor Horta. As for Argentina, its ambassador has taken up residence in the Ciamberlani house, an emblematic achievement by Paul Hankar. This Art-Nouveau nugget now sports the Argentine flag and coat of arms on its façade, which is covered in delicate sgraffito. Its ground floor, which is normally closed to the public, is accessible for certain cultural events organized by the Embassy or during the BANAD festival. In particular, it hosts presentations and exhibitions by the Buenos Aires Art Nouveau Association (AANBA).
Cuba and Argentina in their Art-Nouveau settings
© Romain Droog
Most of the other Latin American embassies are concentrated on avenue Franklin Roosevelt, the diplomatic hub par excellence. Close to the Colombian and Venezuelan embassies, conquering the central parterre of the avenue, stands the statue of Simon Bolivar, libertador and creator of Greater Colombia. This bronze equestrian statue has dominated the avenue since 1992. It was designed by Hugo Daini, an Italian sculptor who emigrated to Venezuela after the 2nd World War. Every year, a commemoration brings together the main ambassadors from the region around this major figure in the political independence of the continent. Engraved in the Baltic marble are the countries liberated by Bolivar: Panama, Peru, Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia and Ecuador.
Surprisingly, this is not Bolivar's only presence in Brussels. Any traveler who has ever taken a Flixbus has at one time or another been to Place Bolivar, just outside the Gare du Nord station. On this very square, in the shadow of the skyscrapers of Brussels' Manhattan, there has been a stele in honor of the libertador since 2011. It was a gift from Venezuela to mark the bicentenary of its independence.
Simon Bolivar under the Brussels snow
© Romain Droog
José de San Martin, the other Latin American libertador, also appears in the public space of Brussels. The general who led the battles for the independence of Argentina, Chile and Peru is depicted on horseback in an affluent corner of Woluwe Saint-Pierre, alongside the Tram Museum. In a warrior pose, he seems to be pointing the way for his troops, his finger stretched out towards the horizon. This statue by Frenchman Louis-Joseph Daumas was given to the Brussels municipality by the Argentine government in 1975. A flashy gift, but not very original: it's an identical replica of the statue that stands in the Plaza San Martin in Buenos Aires, as well as in Madrid's University Campus.
The Argentine general, unlike his colleague Bolivar, shares an intimate history with our capital. After gaining independence, Argentina went through a long period of political instability. A widower at the time, San Martin decided to leave for Europe with his 8-year-old daughter, Mercedes. They settled in Brussels, in the Rue de la Fiancée, near the Place de Brouckère. There they led an austere life, occasionally receiving visits from leading figures from the young Latin American republics.
Coincidentally, this hero of his country's independence was in Brussels in 1830, when the Belgians were seceding from the Netherlands. The general fled the conflict and settled in Boulogne-sur-mer, where he died in 1850. Today, not much remains of the general's Brussels home. Rue de la Fiancée has become the sinister backdrop to the insurance offices that are devouring this part of the city. Only a small commemorative plaque, desolate in the middle of the public works, reminds passers-by of its illustrious resident.
General San Martin and writer Julio Cortazar
© Romain Droog
San Martin is not the only Argentinian to have his name inscribed in the history of Brussels. Under the German bombs, writer Julio Cortazar was born in 1914 in the embassy offices where both his parents worked. As a reminder, a portrait of the author of "Hopscotch" can be found in Uccle (Avenue Louis Lepoutre). It was installed in 2005, in the presence of his wife Aurora Bernardez. Although he spent a large part of his life in Paris, this is surprisingly the only sculpture of the writer on European soil. It is the work of Argentinian artist Edmund Valladares, who has also written several books.
Brussels, with its international status and crossroads, is full of public spaces retracing part of Latin American history. Compared with the almost total absence of heroes from Belgium's former colonies, the attention paid to the liberators of the Americas raises questions. The public space of Brussels tells us a story, but also of the impossibility of tackling certain pages of its History. It does, however, remind us of the diffuse but very real links that exist between Brussels and all the countries of Latin America. Links to be maintained and developed, why not with other less formal artistic expressions that reflect the cultural richness of the Latin American continent and its Brussels diaspora?
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